Thursday, May 30, 2013

Fortaleza

We visited Fortaleza de Luanda on Dia dos Trabalhadors (May 1st), the day that Paul arrived in town. Great way to get over jet lag. Alberto, our relief driver took us there, and since we were going to be looking around for a while, we figured he should join us.

After paying the "donation" rate of 500 Kwanzas per head (seemed reasonable) we headed into the fort. The first time that we went to a Portuguese fort was in Sagres, Portugal with Paul's parents. It is the westernmost point in Portugal, and I believe in Europe too. There is a lot of history there, as I think this is where a lot of Portuguese voyages departed to explore the world. Think Vasco de Gama.

The Fortaleza in Luanda is very similar in structure - I guess that's the standardization of military design at work!. But it has some distinct characteristics that make it truly African (the warrior woman at the front was a start)...
Paul insisted the itsy bitsy guard get in the picture with me. The guard was insistent that I hold the hand of the warrior woman.  Very fun moment to chat with the guard. He was enjoying the engagement too.

What I believe to be the most masculine flag in the world; black and red, machete over gear with a Soviet star. Badass.

  
Badass

A good view of the fort design - pretty amazing

Alberto taking in the sights - he's staring out at the Ilha from this angle, the main city is in the background
The other part of the view - several cannons once were strategically positioned; now they would just blow up the Ilha and the Marginale.
The fort also had several Russian-made tanks/planes that were used when Angola was gaining its independence, and it had Agostino Neto (the founder of modern day Angola)'s collection of vehicles that he used during parades, etc.

This tank is about the same size as the one we saw lodged in the mud while crossing the Cuanza River to Cabo Ledo
Me testing out the Tires















Avionino

Willy's Jeep

Adorable little PINK car used in Neto's parade.

The interior of the fort had several statues of key Portuguese explorers and conquistadors, and the most beautiful Azulejas (painted tiles that together create a decorative historical or biblical scene). They were so unique relative to those that I saw in Portugal on our trip because they depicted African scenes with lions and giraffes, etc.











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The views between the two Fortalezas were very different too; in Sagres, the view is of high cliffs, rocky coast, and crashing waves, and a sea that goes on forever. In Luanda while the view might once have been similar (see Azulejas above) the view is a combination of the Marginale, the President's home (which one is not allowed to take a picture of), the Ilha, and the road heading south where our office is located (and where the Marginale will continue some day).

The Marginale runs the length of the bay - you can see the old Portuguese construction down low and the city building itself up in the background and up the hill.
Alberto and Paul looking out over the south side at the shanty town that is interspersed with multi-million dollar residences. One can guess who will win out on the long term occupancy plan. Alberto was explaining what was going to happen next.

Part of the City - You can see the new Sonangol Building to the left of the SuperBock beer mural. I was there for a meeting in May, and the view is spectacular.
The south side of the city; our office is the building on the right - we live in the far distance past that last peninsula
The low-lands area right by our office... if you look at the Azulejas pictures, they show the Fortaleza from the water, and it gives a good idea of what the beachfront used to look like
The Ilha on the left you can see a hotel that has been abandoned for some time - Paul's dad stayed there once upon a time... Club Navale is where the boats are (go figure)





Since it was a holiday, there were several groups of kids running around, so I caught a few pictures of them. They must have been from either a private school or an orphanage, but their spirit was of pure joy and amusement as they literally ran from place to place in this giant fortress. What a playground.



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