Paul woke up and we went for a walk to the square. We were warned not to take the little side streets at night, but it was dusk, and so we thought now or never, and so we followed two teenage girls in the direction they were going with the logic that they knew a safe way to navigate the lanes.
We ended up passing all sorts of things: small shops with curios, women sitting in large groups and chattering, some entertainers, and then finally we came out into a small square with about ten shops... We took a look around, and likely because I speak enough French, and because Paul was with me, we really weren't harassed much. Also, relative to the other tourists we saw, we were reasonably dressed (I was covered in a light linen jacket, scarf covering my décolletage, capris, and simple flats, and Paul looked like someone from National Geographic/Bear Grimes. Whereas we saw short shorts, loose tank tops, and just sort of "look at me! I'm not from here!" garb and behavior in general.
Anyway, enough self-righteousness for now... We realized that the actual square was still not where we were, so we took another trail through some more shops and within a few hundred meters landed ourselves in the middle of a huge open space with a ton of stands all opening for business for the evening. We bought some figs and apricots at one of the stands, and we refused 20 different dinner offers from 20 different tented restaurants - only because we already had dinner plans - the food looked very inviting. The most original proposal inviting us into dinner was "you look like Starving 'Marving.'" Paul thought that was hilarious. Those who don't know who Starvin' Marvin is...hit the link; irony. There were also several cups filled to the brim with mint, just waiting for Moroccan Whiskey to fill them up. AKA sweet tea.
We took a pic or two of the snake charmer, which cost us a then dirham coin (about $1.20), walked around the square, and then busted a move back to Maison MK for a quick evening cocktail on the terrace... heaven. I'm really enjoying how much Paul is liking this place. It's not that I'm some super schooled world traveler, but I've been around a bit, and I'm glad that he is enjoying the exploration of somewhere new, and a little exotic. As an example, we were up on the terrace, and we had just ordered our G&Ts, and we were looking out on the city (max three stories high, with rooftop terraces all over the place. The exception in height is the mosque), and Paul just blurts out "I LOVE how alive this place is! I can hear the music and see the smoke from the square from here, and I can see this and that, etc." since Paul hasn't really traveled by just exploring a busy, non-western city like this before, it was a great encouragement to hear that he was enjoying it all!
That continued as we departed to meet our taxi driver Rashid. He wove us through the city on streets that you wouldn't think fit a car, and along the way, he said hi to probably ten people in the road with a familiarity that had you convinced you were in a small town. Quite the opposite was true with us, as Rashid was a bit quiet, so I asked him where to find the best kebab, and he was surprised and thrilled that I spoke French, so that he could communicate. And the talking began! He told me about this place - not far from the city, but a bit of a drive, of course (good taxi sell), where they have the best earth-baked sheep. You just ask them for a bit; a quarter kilo, a half kilo, whatever you are hungry for. And they will sit you down and set you up with a plate, he said. Meanwhile the fact that he called the sheep (not lamb) mouton made me think mutton, then goat... So we're not going there tomorrow to eat.
Rashid continued giving us the low-down on this meal saying"c'est merveilleux!" etc...kissing his fingers to his lips in French "delicieux!" fashion. I kept trying to get back on track to the kebabs, (quite a step down from a whole goat baked in the ground) to no avail. Anyway, as were doing all this talking we were weaving around the streets with people walking everywhere, Rashid saying hello out the window, and then once we were sufficiently discombobulated with regard to our whereabouts, Rashid stopped, and a man with a dashiki and deep red fez-like cap opened the car door, greeted Rashid and us, and sat in the front seat. On we went for about 100m more until we could go no farther in the car.
Rashid explains at this point that this is our restaurant greeter, and he is here to guide us to the restaurant, Le Fondouk. We get out with him, are told to call Rashid 20 minutes before we are ready, and off we go down a little alleyway that is dimly, but warmly lit. Along the way, we stop at a sign that shows "Fondouk El Ouarzazi" and our new friend says this is how the restaurant got its name. I ask what a Fondouk is, and our guide is surprised, and quite happy that we asked.."come in here... I'll show you."
So we detour into another alleyway and in each little grotto or room, there are shops with leather makers and craftsmen doing their thing. We enter into a courtyard and there are a couple dozen rooms on the first and second floors with people working away on their trades. The Fondouk is the craft works area. From there, the leather works go to market in the souks.
We arrive at the restaurant, another 100 or so meters away, if that, and are greeted into a lovely and well-decorated space, that is completely empty. They check our reservation, and sure enough we are up on the 2nd floor (third floor for North Americans). So we climb the stairs to the top, which opens out into a beautifully decorated garden terrace. We are sat at a table on the side with white bougainvillea cascading over us, and a lovely red and white glassed lamp lighting our table from the side. The restaurant is full on the terrace, but each table is just far away enough that you don't feel involved in others' conversations. The staff are friendly and the meal was delicious.
Paul and I shared a Moroccan salad taster - seven different salads - tomato, carrot, lentil, eggplant, zuchinni, potato, and some yummy mix, like a simple salsa. In the middle was a scoop of prickly pear cactus jelly - a popular desert fruit I remember from my Arizona days. We also ordered a goat cheese sampler... It came with one perfectly fried golf ball of goat cheese, another baked piece in phyllo on a small bed of pesto, and a last one of very lightly fermented cheese covered with arugula and a light olive oil dressing. We had kebabs in different forms for our entrees. I ended up with a tagine full of couscous and lamb, beef, and checked kebabs with roasted veggies, while Paul had four types of kebab (his included turkey) with some sample salads. The best part of the meal was the pistachio creme brûlée with a chocolate ganache-type ice cream on top. Heaven.
We called Rashid when we were done, hopped in his cab, which was just arriving with another restaurant guest (what timing!), and off we went. We arrived back at the walking streets, and Rashid locked his car and walked us back to the Maison MK to retire.
We have Rashid's card, so we will be trying to use him for other trips on our Marrakesh adventures... Until then, I think both Paul and I are very satisfied with our first day in Morocco.
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